Kaiserschmarrn (Scrambled Pancakes)

Scrambled pancake with raisins and plum compote

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City/Region: Austria

Time Period: 1858

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Like many food origin stories, the ones for kaiserschmarrn are varied and no one knows which, if any, are true. What is true is that Kaiser Franz Joseph I did really enjoy this dish, and as a result kaiserschmarrn became popular throughout the Austrian Empire and is still served in many restaurants today.

This kaiserschmarrn isn’t as sweet as modern versions I’ve had, but it’s still delicious. The vanilla sugar caramelizes and adds a pleasant bit of crunch, the cream makes for a richer pancake, and the plum compote is a lovely addition.

“Kaiser-Schmarren.
Whisk 4 decilitres of sweet cream with 4 egg yolks, 2 decilitres flour, and a little salt, add 4 egg whites, beaten to snow, and raisins. Pour the whole thing into hot beef fat or butter, let it get nicely brown like Mehl-Schmarren, prepare it in the dish and sprinkle it with vanilla sugar.
Mehl-Schmarren.
…Place it in the oven so it rises nicely. Then remove it and place it on a rapid heat. When it’s stiff and browned on the bottom, you turn it over with the pancake spatula, let it brown again on the bottom, then tear it into large pieces with a fork and serve it quickly so it doesn’t dry out.
Plum Compote.
Plums are either halved or left whole and peeled. They are placed in hot water where the skin can easily come off. They are then simmered with a little sugar, water, and cinnamon.”

— Die Süddeutsche Küche by Katharina Prato, 1858

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Ingredients:

Plum Compote

• 4 plums, Austrian prune plums are ideal but any plum will work
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) water
• 1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Kaiserschmarrn

• 1/3 cup (50 g) raisins
• Water or rum, for soaking the raisins
• 4 egg yolks
• 1 2/3 cup (400 ml) cream
• 1 heaping cup (150 g) flour
• A pinch salt
• 4 egg whites
• 3 tablespoons (45 g) butter or beef fat
• 3 1/2 tablespoons (45 g) vanilla sugar*

*If you don’t have vanilla sugar, add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract to the batter and use plain sugar.

Instructions:

1. To make the plum compote: Cut the plums in half and remove the pits.
2. In a saucepan, whisk together the water, sugar, and cinnamon until the sugar dissolves.
3. Place the plums in the saucepan, cut side down. The water-sugar mixture won't cover the plums, but that's okay.
4. Set the pan over medium heat and let it slowly come to a simmer. Once it’s simmering, set the lid on it and let it cook undisturbed for 30 to 45 minutes. It’s done when the plums are nice and soft and the syrup is thickened.
5. To make the kaiserschmarrn: Place the raisins in a bowl and cover them with water or rum. Let them soak for 30 minutes.
6. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).
7. Whisk the egg yolks to break them up and combine them. Whisk in half of the cream. Sift in the flour and whisk it in as well, then whisk in the rest of the cream until the batter is smooth. Adding the cream in two parts helps to make a smooth batter. Whisk in the salt.
8. In a separate very clean bowl, beat the egg whites to soft peaks. This should take a few minutes with a stand mixer or about 20 minutes by hand.
9. Add half of the egg whites to the batter and gently fold them in with a spatula. You don’t want to deflate the egg whites too much as you mix. Once it’s mostly mixed in, add the rest of the egg whites and fold until there are no more streaks of egg white visible.
10. Melt the butter or beef fat in an oven-safe pan over medium heat. When it’s melted and hot, pour in the batter and let it spread out. Drain the raisins and sprinkle them over the batter.
11. Cook for about 20 to 30 seconds, or until you can see little bubbles coming to the surface.
12. Once you can see those bubbles, transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 10 minutes. As it bakes, it will rise just like a souffle, and just like with a souffle, don’t open the oven door while it bakes or it could deflate.
13. When the kaiserschmarrn browns on top, remove it from the oven and place it back on the stove over medium heat.
14. Use a spatula to break the kaiserschmarrn into pieces as large or small as you like. Sprinkle the vanilla sugar over it, then continue to cook, stirring the pieces and sugar for another 2 to 3 minutes, or until the sugar caramelizes.
15. To serve: Dish up the kaiserschmarrn, spoon a few of the plums over it, and serve it forth.

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