Poached Salmon in Egg Sauce

Poached salmon with creamy egg sauce and chopped parsley

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City/Region: United States of America

Time Period: 1776

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Tradition states that, on that first 4th of July, 1776, Abigail Adams served John Adams a dinner that included poached Atlantic salmon in egg sauce. Now, we know that’s not true because they weren’t even in the same colony that day, and John Adams believed that July 2nd should be the day that was celebrated as this was the day that the proposal that would become the Declaration of Independence was passed. 

Historically accurate menu or not, I’m recreating this dish with recipes from The Martha Washington Cook Book. Published in 1892, the book is ostensibly based on the recipes from the kitchens of Martha Washington, which just seemed fitting.

The salmon is delicious, and the sauce reminds me of a lighter hollandaise, though I wouldn’t judge you if you wanted to add some more herbs or spices.

“EGG SAUCE
Make a drawn butter; chop two hard-boiled eggs quite fine, the white and yolk separately, and stir it into the sauce before serving. This is used for boiled fish or vegetables.

TO MAKE DRAWN BUTTER
Put half a pint of milk in a perfectly clean stewpan, and set it over a moderate fire; put into a pint bowl a heaping tablespoonful of wheat flour, quarter of a pound of sweet butter, and a saltspoonful of salt; work these well together with the back of a spoon, then pour into it, stirring it all the time, half a pint of boiling water; when it is smooth, stir it into the boiling milk, let it simmer for five minutes or more, and it is done.
Drawn butter made after this recipe will be found to be most excellent; it may be made less rich by using less butter.

Boiled Salmon
The middle slice of salmon is the best. Sew up neatly in a mosquito-net bag, and boil a quarter of an hour to the pound in hot, salted water. When done, unwrap with care, and lay upon a hot dish, taking care not to break it… Garnish with parsley and sliced eggs.”

— The Martha Washington Cook Book: A Compendium of Cookery and Reliable Recipes, 1892

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Ingredients:

• 1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
• 1 heaping teaspoon flour
• 1/2 cup (113 g) butter, softened
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup boiling water
• 2 hard boiled eggs
• Salmon, I used two portions
• Parsley, for serving, optional

Instructions:

1. In a saucepan, bring the milk to a simmer over medium heat.
2. While the milk heats, in a bowl, mix together the flour, butter, and salt with a spatula or spoon. Add the boiling water a little at a time, stirring to combine.
3. When all of the boiling water has been added and the mixture is smooth, stir it into the simmering milk and let it simmer for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. The sauce should thicken a bit, but if you don’t see anything happening, add a little more flour.
4. Chop the hard boiled eggs into small pieces, then add them to the sauce. Continue to cook for another minute or two, then either take the sauce off the heat or turn it down to low while you cook the salmon.
5. Fill a pot that’s big enough for the salmon with water, then add a large pinch of salt. Bring it to the barest of simmers, around 175-180°F (80°C). You’re going to want to keep it around this temperature to cook the salmon. I used a candy thermometer so I could monitor it.
6. If you want to follow the historical recipe’s method for cooking the salmon, place it in a cloth bag; I used a nut milk bag. You can also cook the salmon without a bag. I tried it both ways, and the one without the bag was a little more well done, but otherwise tasted the same. So either way, submerge it in the heated water and cook for 15 minutes per pound, or until you stick the tip of a knife into it and it comes out warm.
7. Plate the salmon, pour the egg sauce over it, garnish with some chopped parsley if desired, and serve it forth.

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